The easier way to do this might be with a scissor lift in the garage. I’ve been pricing these out for a while now and a friend of mine actually has one that he’s happy with. It will run on 110v so no special 220 outlet required. It’s low profile, but I’ll still need to build ramps and some other stuff to be able to get the car onto it. However, this, combined with maybe some sort of chain/winch that rests on the top and connects to the engine hooks, could be an easier way to go than the shop crane and transmission jack. It would probably be about $1500 shipped and weighs 1000 lbs, but it would be used for many things and vehicles. Plus, I’ve always wanted one.
This lift will require easy storage, so the MR2 will need to be parked on top of it at all times... Read More
So in preparation of doing this swap, I’ve been watching the sale ads for Harbor Freight and looking at the shop cranes. I’m also looking at Transmission Jacks as well as some other lift type things for raising the engine. One thing that keeps me going back and forth on a final decision is which route should I go? Should I get a shop crane and then use some jack stands on top of something else to lift the car in the air? Or should I spend way more money on a scissor lift that I would use for other jobs too?
And, I’m not sure how easy it will be to get the crane in place inside my garage to be able to lift the car. As you can see from the pic below, I’m going to need to get this under the car, then raise it up and then secure the car on stands of some type... Read More
Nearly all parts are ready on the new engine. Serpentine belt is installed and new/remanufactured AC compressor is bolted on. Same with a newer alternator. Other pulleys are installed and looking good. New colored coolant/heater hose is on hand and will be put on where appropriate. Pictures will come soon enough, but I wanted to get some thoughts down and also hopefully provide some motivation to make more progress on this project.
I still need to figure out what thread size and pitch the water fitting holes in the IHI turbo from Power Enterprise are. I will try to go to Home Depot on an upcoming weekend with the turbo and just keep checking bolts in the hardware section until I find the exact match and then get a good fitting in that size... Read More
The engine project is moving along slowly. But is still making progress. The main thing that remains is getting various parts ordered and ready / installed so that when the time comes to pull the old engine out, the amount of time that the garage stays in ER mode. Also, on the list of things to change will be the heat exchanger in the front and re-routing some hose.
While the engine is out, I’m going to try to paint the engine bay and clean it up a lot. I’d like to find a ported oil filter sandwich plate to mount my temp sensor there instead of right next to where the return line from the turbo enters the oil pan. But I haven’t seen any good options. If anyone has any suggestions, please post a comment.
More stuff to come later and hopefully with pictures.
I bought the Hass 380-410 injectors from Web 3.0 a little while ago and decided to get them cleaned and flow tested after it was suggested to me by aaronjb.
It’s a good thing I had them tested too. I wouldn’t have had the right sizing to factor into my PFC if I didn’t. Here’s the results:
335, 335, 335, 342
340, 340, 345, 345
test pressure was 43.5psi
performed at 0.775 specific gravity at 5000rpm with 6.0ms pulse width.
I don’t blame Web 3.0. I’m sure that’s how the injectors were sold to him with a the hass kit or whatever and he was just passing the info along. That’s my assumption anyway.
My reason for posting this is to caution anyone doing any specific tuning with these injectors and sizing them in a PFC... Read More
It all started a few months ago or so. I was strolling through the for sale thread and noticed someone selling a used Power Enterprise turbo kit for a pretty cheap price. It had everything the kit comes with. Plus I was able to get the modified fuel pump piece so that was 1 less step I would have to do. In addition to all the turbo goodness, I also bought a Moroso Oil Pan from the same guy.
Now with a turbo on the way, I noticed AuburnSpyder was doing another round of his oil coolers. So I bought one of those too.
And wouldn’t you know it, I was just in time to actually need the awesome cubby pot from Gregg. So I bought that too.
Now I needed to fill the 3 gauge holes. I hunted like crazy for deals and I got them via eBay... Read More
I finally finished editing my video that shows the sound difference between my prior setup and now with the main Cat replaced with the Down Pipe. So I figured I’d take this opportunity to write a full review of the product since I was the first to install.
As you can see from the pictures, this is a really high quality piece. The welds are great and it’s also 8.2 lbs lighter than the stock main cat. The pipe comes with new gaskets for the header side and the cat-back side as well as new hardware for both ends as well (2 Bolts, 5 Nuts, 5 washers)
All 17mm. Installation was done with the car on jack stands and I only removed the under panels to get to the pipe. So here’s how to install it (NOTE: Your results may vary. Follow these instructions at your own risk.)…
Tools... Read More
This was something I wanted to do, but kept putting it off for a while as I wasn’t quite sure that I knew everything that I needed to know for the install. The biggest thing here is fear of the unknown. It’s not that hard to do, but it is scary to cut your wiring harness. At least it was for me. It is important to note that the LC-1 can be installed in different places. My information here is for installing it in stock O2 Sensor location 1 (Passenger side in header). The wiring will be a little different if you install into location 2 or if you have the bung installed and put it there.
I got the majority of my info from reading posts on the board from people like Tem. I got even more information from beanie and rando... Read More
It has been discussed on many forums for several years and all experts agree that you should remove the pre-catalytic converters that are in the Exhaust Manifold. Here is a brief summary of the problem… Oil consumption ends up making its way to the honeycomb material of the car and causes it to break up over time. Then, some of these solid particles (from the cat) make their way back into the combustion chamber and cause catastrophic engine failure. Read More